Crate training sometimes gets a bad reputation; but if done correctly, your dog should view their crate as a comfortable "den" they won't mind spending time in. Crating can be an important tool in preventing potty accidents, destructive behavior, etc... especially for a new dog. In todays post, we are going to dig deeper into how to crate train your dog, choosing an appropriate crate, and some specific considerations and tips.
It's also important to note that even if your dog is perfect while unsupervised, crates serve other important functions such as: giving them a "safe space" to escape to, providing separation between dogs or other animals, safe transport, limiting activity for medical recovery, confining them if necessary for visitors, and much more!
Choosing a Crate - Setting up your dog's den
Crates typically come in a few variations: wire mesh, hard plastic “air line” style, soft fabric mesh, heavy duty metal, or built-in wood furniture pieces. When just starting out, many people opt for the durability and versatility of a standard wire mesh crate with a plastic floor tray at home, and a solid plastic crate for travel. Fabric mesh crates can be a good option for smaller dogs when traveling, but typically aren't as sturdy or great for home use. Wood crates built into furniture offer stylish and versatile options but should only be used once you’re sure your dog will not chew them. Heavy duty metal crates offer great safety and durability for both home and travel, but are often relatively expensive. It’s important to remember that each dog is an individual and may have their own preferences as well. Plastic crates tend to be more enclosed and “den-like”, which some dogs prefer. You can cover a wire mesh crate with a lightweight sheet or pre-made cover to get the same kind of effect.
There are a few general guidelines when sizing a crate, but remember to look at the manufacturer's instructions as well. There are many options and variations to the typical styles to suite any need.
Height: The crate you choose should be tall enough that your dog’s head/ears do not touch the top, with a few inches to spare.
Width: It should be wide enough that your dog can lay on their side with their legs outstretched comfortably, and be able to turn around with ease.
Length: It should be long enough that your dog can lay on their stomach with their front paws outstretched without touching the front/back, with a few inches to spare.
When using the crate as a house training tool, your crate should not be much larger than stated above. A small area will encourage your dog not to potty there. Many larger wire crates come with the option to be sectioned off smaller for puppies and gradually expanded as your they grow. When in doubt, it is always better to get a crate that is too large than too small.
When placing the crate in your home, consider where you intend to place it as some crates only open in one direction. Though, there are crates that offer reversible doors, or additional side mounted doors which are much more versatile.
There are many useful accessories you can purchase as well, such as: side mounted bowls, zip on covers, heating and cooling mats, durable “chew proof” bedding, and much more!
Try to make their crate as comfortable as possible. Provide them with bedding or blankets (though there are exceptions for those that chew up or eat bedding when unsupervised), water (if they will be crated for an extended time), and chews or toys to entertain them. Some dogs find it comforting to place a shirt or blanket that smells like you in their crate as well.
The Method - How to crate train your dog
Of course, every dog is an individual. How long it will take to crate train your particular dog can be hard to say and will vary based on things like age, history, and temperament. Expect it to take at least a few days at a minimum, and up to several weeks or longer. There are also dogs who either have previous negative experiences with the crate, or who don't do well confined. There are other options for safe confinement out there, so don't feel like crating is the only way if you are struggling.
The following steps serve as a basic guide through crate training. Some dogs may take to it very quickly, while others may need additional steps added or changed. When in doubt, reach out to a professional trainer for personalized help. If you happen to be around Seattle; we would love to help. We also offer virtual consultations anywhere you may be.
Step 1
Place the crate in a quiet area of a room you spend a lot of time in. Make it comfortable with bedding, toys, etc… Some people have crates in both the bedroom and the main living space.
Leave the door open and let your dog explore it. Occasionally toss treats inside, even when they don’t see you, so your dog begins to regularly visit to see if there’s anything tasty.
Once your dog is regularly exploring the crate and seems comfortable, move on to step 2.
Step 2
Now you will begin to put entering the crate on cue and turn the training into more of an interactive process with you and your dog. For this step, it's important your dog will follow a treat or toy into the crate. In order to teach them what a specific cue means, you need to be able to reliably produce the behavior so you can pair the two.
Treats are often better as they don't tend to get dogs as hyped up as toys do. You want to associate the crate with calmness as much as possible.
Toss a treat inside your dog’s crate. Point to the crate and say “crate” or a cue of your choice. Repeat several times so your dog starts to associate the cue with going inside their crate.
Once your dog is going inside quickly and you’ve repeated it several times, move on to step 3.
Step 3
Point to the crate and give the cue. Wait about 2 seconds for your dog to enter on their own. If they don’t, toss a treat inside. If they do, immediately reward them.
If your dog doesn’t go in with just the cue, repeat step 2 several times before trying again.
Once your dog will go in with just the pointing gesture and cue, move on to step 4, but remember to keep rewarding them at this stage.
Step 4
Give your dog the crate cue. Once they’re inside, gently close the door and treat them. Let them out immediately after.
Repeat this process, increasing the duration the gate is closed by a small amount each time. Treat them often, while gradually asking more of them and waiting longer between treats.
If your dog seems stressed or anxious, take break then go through the process slower. When they’re comfortable for a few minutes while inside, move on to step 5.
Step 5
Cue your dog to enter the crate and give them a favorite chew, meal, or other item that will keep their attention for a while. Close the gate.
Move away to another part of the room and focus on something other than your dog, the goal is to not stare at them. When they finish their chew or meal, let them out.
Begin increasing the distance you are from the crate, the duration your dog is inside, leaving the room, crating overnight, etc… always at a level they seem comfortable with.
This stage can be rather ambiguous and will vary widely depending on your home, the dog, and your goals. You just want to gradually make it more challenging for them, baby stepping your way to your final goal.
Tips & Tricks
Never force your dog into their crate, or use it as a punishment. It should always remain as positive as possible.
Don’t crate your dog for more than about 4 hours at a time, with the exception of overnight. There are, of course, exceptions; but about 4 hours is generally a good rule. At this point they should be let out, at least for a play/potty break and to stretch their legs.
Exercise is important; a tired dog is more likely to be relaxed and sleep in their crate. That being said, if you try to crate them immediately after rigorous play, they may be too amped up to relax. Try giving them at least 15-20 minutes to wind down first.
Dogs with prior negative crate experiences may do better with other confinement methods.
After step 5, you can gradually phase out the treats; but DO occasionally reward them! Try investing in some puzzle feeders to keep them entertained and rewarded for being in the crate.
Below is a simple step-by-step checklist you can use to keep track of your progress. Towards the end, there's even some challenges to take your training farther.
Crate Training Checklist - A simple guide to get started
Step 1 | |
I placed the crate in a quiet area of a room I spend a lot of time in | |
I left the door open and have been tossing treats inside | |
My dog is exploring the crate regularly (move on to step 2) |
Step 2 | |
I’ve started pointing and adding the verbal cue before tossing a treat in | |
I’ve repeated this step several times throughout the day | |
My dog is entering quickly when I toss a treat in (move on to step 3) |
Step 3 | |
I’ve started to cue my dog and wait a few seconds before luring them | |
I’ve repeated this step several times and they are starting to understand | |
My dog is entering quickly before I treat them (move on to step 4) |
Step 4 | |
I’ve begun to close the door when my dog enters | |
I’ve repeated this step several times, increasing the duration | |
My dog’s comfortable being crated for a few minutes (move on to step 5) |
Step 5 | |
I’ve begun to give my dog a long lasting chew, etc. to keep them occupied | |
My dog is comfortable with me moving away and ignoring them | |
My dog and I are ready to go further with training (try some challenges) |
Challenges | |
I can leave the house for several minutes while my dog is crated | |
My dog is comfortable being crated for 30 minutes | |
My dog is comfortable being crated for several hours | |
My dog is comfortable being crated overnight | |
I can ask my dog to crate in other places besides our home |
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